That Fourpure are not starry-eyed hobbyists is clear from the moment you wander into their Bermondsey brewery. The German kit, bought in 2017, is sizeable and the on-site bar area, remade at the same time, has more than a whiff of an American taproom. That carries through into the beer: all are good (as they should be: brewer John Driebergen learnt his trade at Brooklyn and Meantime), but the oatmeal stout - rich, bitter and very sessionable - is perhaps the best of the lot.